We arrived at Kongbair, the leading edge of the Tomur Glacier in the Tianshan Mountains, on the afternoon of September 23,2004. Kongbair at 3,200 meters above sea level was the starting point for our arduous trek to climb the final section of the retreating glacier.

0ur route was complicated by the piles of till and many crevasses on the surface of the glacier, both products of glacial movement and melting. We followed the guide very closely, taking careful steps on the glacier, experiencing a dread that can hardly be put into words. On the high plateau, you have to be unhurried, taking steady steps so as to conserve your physical energy. Walking over the till gave every one of US blisters on the feet and, with backpacks weighing over 20 kilograms, every step forward was made at a great cost. The September daytime temperature on the glacier was only about 5ˇăC. After less than five minutes rest. I was freezing all over and had to press on.
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